Extravagant trimmings are the order of the month for July 1814’s fashion plates. The morning gown on display features Vandyke lace and cotton ball fringe around its hem, as well as abundant lace and needlework around the collar. The cotton ball fringe is also used to confine the full sleeves in four or five places down the arm. The bodice is described as “full body, inlet lace or needle-work, confined by several drawings to fit the shape”—I’m wondering if “drawings” here refers to “drawing strings,” or whether some other means were used to make the bodice conform to the wearer’s figure.
This month’s evening dress begins with the extravagance of “a blond lace train, richly embroidered in silver lama, with a superb border of the same.” It is a bit difficult to see the details of the lace train in the actual print, so I’ve added a shot of a dress in the V&A Museum c. 1820, which features blonde lace as a trim, below the print. This gown features gold, rather than silver, embroidery, but you can imagine a similar effect. The Ackermann’s gown has the additional feature of “rich silver cord, and large bullion tassels, tied on the side in long loops and streamers”—handy for fidgety fingers no doubt, but all too likely to catch on passing furniture, I fear!
No fabric samples this month, just a detailed needlework pattern (perhaps for the collar adorning this month’s morning gown?)
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