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Archives for August 2018

Ackermann’s August 1816 Fashion Plates

August 8, 2018 By BlissBennet Leave a Comment

 

August 1816’s first fashion plate depicts its “evening gown” not from the front, but from the back, a rare sight in a fashion plate of the period. You can see how tiny the bodice was in the back, only a few scant inches of satin plaits (pleats) covering the mid-back; the bodice itself is cut quite low, down the shoulders. I wonder if the lady could have worn any sort of corset with a dress cut so low? The trimming around the bodice’s edge is made of white net fashioned into roses, with a “little tuft of pearl in the heart of each.” I hope those roses weren’t too scratchy…

Ackermann's August 1816, plate 10: Evening Dress

 

We see very little of the “Walking Dress” shown in plate 11, covered as it is with a pelisse of blue and white shot sarsnet. The text describes it as “made half-high”; it looks more to me as if it has three layers, echoing the cloaks worn by the more fashionable male whips, which featured multiple capes. The look is repeated in the triple layers of “rich lace” that finish the bodice. I particularly admire the jaunty white satin hat; its turned-up brim gives it an “air of peculiar smartness.” A good model for Georgette Heyer’s The Grand Sophy as she takes the reins and drives her carriage down St. James’ Street…

Ackermann's August 1816, plate 11: Walking Dress

 

General trends in August’s fashions:

• Feathers are far less common on hats than are flowers worn á la Françoise (as in plate 11), or simple ribbon adornments

• Carriage costumes still feature scarves, but “the Princess Mary’s bonnet and spencer are higher in estimation.” The princess, eldest daughter of George III, was finally allowed to wed, marrying her cousin, the Duke of Gloucester, in July, only two months after the marriage of Princess Charlotte, daughter of the prince regent. This column includes a description of Mary’s wedding gown.

• Backs of immense breadth, with sleeves falling off the shoulder, are out; backs are now of “moderate” breadth, with sleeves just touching the shoulder

• Long sleeves remain fashionable in full dress, a trend that Ackermann’s columnist does not favor: “it is true they are always composed of crape, lace, or gauze, but however light the material, they are certainly not appropriate to full dress.”

• Fashionable colors for August include green, celestial blue, straw-color, pale pink, and violet

 

Ackermann's Fashion Plates August 1816 descriptions

 

Long lines of embroidery—to adorn the hem of a gown?—are featured in August’s needlework patterns:

Ackermann's August 1816 needlework patterns

 

 

Filed Under: Regency History Tagged With: Ackermann, Ackermanns, Ackermmann's, clothing, costume, dress, fashion, needlework

Ackermann’s Fashion Plates July 1816

August 1, 2018 By BlissBennet Leave a Comment

 

Ackermann's July 1816 Plate 4: Opera Dress

July 1816’s fashion plates both feature white gowns, one for the opera, and one for morning dress. The opera dress is made of lace worn over a satin slip, while the morning dress is made from muslin (“the only thing now adopted by belles of taste in the morning costume”). Both feature full sleeves, coming tight only at the wrist. And both feature dramatic trimmings about the hem: the opera dress with lace festoons trimmed with “byas” (bias) satin and held by pearl ornaments; the morning dress with two bands of “rich work” (needlework) with a scalloped edge. The lady in the morning dress holds a large book of sheet music; is she just off to practice her pianoforte?

 

Ackermann's July 1816 plate 5: Morning Dress

 

In general fashion notes:

• Matrons are sporting pelisses, while the younger set prefers the spencer

• Straw and Leghorn hats and bonnets are still in fashion

• China crepe scarfs, richly embroidered in colors at the end, are worn for carriage costumes, or scarves of French silk net

• Coloured bodices are not currently in fashion, although white satin bodices are quite popular

• The corset de Grâces is still in fashion; the Thuringuen habit is reputed to be on the rise amongst female equestrians

• Peach-blossom is much in favor as a color in fashions

 

Ackermann's July 1816 Fashion Plate descriptions

 

A long letter from “Eudocia” to “Sophia” reports on the fashions in Paris:

Ackermann's July 1816 French Female Fashions

 

Ovals and scallops feature in July’s needlework patterns:

Ackermann's July 1816 Needlework patterns

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Filed Under: Regency History Tagged With: Ackermann, Ackermanns, Ackermmann's, clothing, costume, dress, fabric, fashion, needlework

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  • Ackermann’s September 1816 Fashion Plates
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  • Ackermann’s Fashion Plates June 1816
  • Ackermann’s Fashion Plates May 1816
  • Ackermann’s Fashion Plates April 1816

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